Tips and Tricks Tuesday #15 - How to Tarnish Silver

BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE DETAILS FOR ALL THREE LINKY PARTIES HERE AT THE COTTAGE!

Welcome to the fifteenth Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party here at the Brambleberry Cottage.

For those of you who are already missing summer fun in the sun...

take a good long look at the beautiful blue water in that swimming pool.

OK...that's long enough!

Now, focus your attention on that fantastic looking director's chair that was given new life by Deanne @ Five Brothers One Sister.

Want to know how to make an inexpensive stencil–like the one Deanne used on this project?  Then hop on over to her place for a great tutorial.

If there's anything this world could use more of, it's gratitude.

Karly @ Jellybean Junkyard created this wonderful board of thanksgiving for her family to remind them how important it is to give thanks.

And now, for another Brambleberry Cottage tip:

Nope, my tip is not a lesson on how to boil eggs to perfection.

Although, it does involve boiled eggs!

Actually, to be more precise, it involves the yolks of boiled eggs.

You see; I happen to really like the wonderful patina that tarnish imparts to older metal objects.

Sometimes the things I collect–like the vintage trophy cup you see above–have just the right amount of that terrific timeworn look I prefer.

Other times, there's just not as much as I would like–as is the case for the dinner bell beside the trophy.

So what's a gal to do?

Why find a way to create tarnish, of course.

It just so happens, sulfur is a great tarnishing agent.  And that also just happens to be an abundant element found in the yolks of eggs.

Since I greatly prefer natural means, over the use of synthetic–and ususally dangerous–chemicals, I decided to give this method a try.

If you enlarge the image above, and compare it to the earlier one, you will notice that the surface of the bell is indeed beginning to darken.

So far, these items have been sealed in that plastic bag for about six hours.  

By the way, any kind of container will do for this project, as long as it's airtight.  And make sure the yolks are warm when you place them in the container. 

Since I want to see if it will tarnish even further, I'm leaving everything, just as you see it, overnight. 

I'll report my findings to you tomorrow.

Tips and Tricks Tuesday #13 - How to Dry Hydrangeas

BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE DETAILS FOR ALL THREE LINKY PARTIES HERE AT THE COTTAGE!

Welcome to the thirteenth Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party here at the Brambleberry Cottage.

Are you ready to see some totally terrific tips?

Then you must go visit Sandra @ Stone Creek Market for festive fall inspiration!

And "chocolate and coffee lovers"–like me–can get their taste buds tickled, with the delectable goodness created from a recipe shared by Jocelyn @ Inside BruCrew Life.

With such an adorable model wearing your creation, anything you make has to look exceptional!

Not only did Jessica @ Craftily Ever After demonstrate her crafting skills with this too-cute headband...

but the reuse of materials for the fabulous flower on her frame project was ingenious.

The Yankee has been after me for some time now to teach him how to sew–only fair, since he taught me how to use power tools.  ; )

And I found the perfect first-timer project from David @ Sam Hober Custom Made Neckties.

Now for this week's Brambleberry Cottage Tip:

There is no shortage of online tips for drying hydrangea blooms.  The Internet is loaded with numerous tried-and-true techniques.

Whether you choose bundling to air dry, the water evaporation method, or silica gel, you're sure to find a method that meets your needs.

I've used the first two with great success–at least where the blooms are concerned.

However, I've encountered a recurring problem with the stems drying in shapes that have made them difficult to use as I intended.

Too many times, I've ended up with stems so severely bent and bowed that my entire arrangement took on a rather deformed appearance.

Not what I was after! 

I've learned that cutting the stems extra long and keeping them bound tightly in several places, while they dry, produces the straight stems I so desire for my projects.

I begin by arranging the heads in a staggered fashion–a somewhat mounded shape–leaving the stems loose closer to the tops.

This aids in drying and builds into the drying process the overall shape I desire for the end result.

Note in the image above, left unbound, the lower parts of the stems curl and bend naturally as they shrink and dry.

But, by keeping the stems bound tightly together–in strategic places–once the hydrangeas are dry, I'll be able to remove the binding, cut off the lower portions and be blessed with nice straight stems for my flower arrangements.

Tips and Tricks Tuesday #11 - How to Clean Glass

BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE DETAILS FOR ALL THREE NEW LINKY PARTIES HERE AT THE COTTAGE!

Welcome to the eleventh Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party here at the Brambleberry Cottage.

Well, it's that time of week again when we get to share all our wonderful tips and tricks with the rest of the blogosphere.

Karly @ Jellybean Junkyard gave us a great tutorial for this Cinderella transformation.  Could that be part of Cindy's coach we see?

Know what the "F" stands for in this lovely wreath by Andrea @ Willow Wisp Cottage? 

I know.  It stands for FABULOUS–the perfect description for the wreath and her hubby for making the letter!

I remember making pom-poms when I was a youth...waaay back when.  ; )

Zeshuregi @ Creative Mind shared a tutorial to simplify this age-old craft. 

Thanks, Zeshuregi!

Ever get stumped on what to do to make "date night" with hubby less run-of-the-mill?

Then go check out the inventive idea from Krista @ While He Was Napping.

And now it's time for another Brambleberry Cottage tip.

The Yankee and I have been busy bringing this terrific vintage cabinet back to life.

I wish I had remembered to take a picture of what it looked like when we pulled it out of the old barn we discovered it in.

To say that its charm was buried beneath layers of accumulated dirt and grime would be a gross understatement!

But that's altogether a different story.

The real trick, I want to share with you now, has to do with the state of the glass panes.

Nice, huh?

Would you believe that's what they looked like after the old faithful bottle of Windex came into play?!

It's true.

So what does one do when glass cleaner doesn't clean glass?

Simple!  Use steel wool.



Yep; that's what I said. 

But not just any grade of steel wool, mind you.

Specifically, use #0000–or 4/0–steel wool.  It's the finest grade and won't scratch the glass.

And, believe it or not, it will actually polish to highly reflective sheen.

N-i-c-e!

Tips and Tricks Tuesday #10 - The Burlap Debate

BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE DETAILS FOR ALL THREE NEW LINKY PARTIES HERE AT THE COTTAGE!

Welcome to the tenth Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party here at the Brambleberry Cottage.

Let's take a peek at a couple of the great links from last week.

Andrea @ Willow Wisp Cottage shared her tips for "prettying up" and organizing a laundry room.  

I'd say that's the perfect way to transform the mundane to the marvelous!

It's that time of year again!  And those of us who choose to steer clear of the ghoulish decor of the season can still enjoy the fun festivities of fall with handmade treasures from Barbara Jean @ Treasures from the Heart.

And now it's time for another Brambleberry Cottage tip.

We all know the popularity of decorating and crafting with burlap today.  But, are you aware of the heated debate over whether this inexpensive decorating wonder is washable or not?

Some say, "Go for it!"  But most say, "No way!"

Not one to go by mere hearsay, I thought I would put it to the test.

When I purchased my burlap, it had a rather unpleasant, strong chemical odor.  Since the project I want to use it for involves my dining table, I knew I had to give washing a try.

I filled the washer with warm water, added my detergent–ECOS, a 100% natural brand–and baking soda and let the machine agitate on the gentle cycle for a minute or two.

Then I stopped the machine and added the whole three-yard piece of burlap and turned the washer back on.

Exactly as had been predicted by the numerous articles I had read, the burlap frayed and left quite a bit of lint in my washer.

As you can see from this close-up, the burlap itself was covered in lint, as well.  My first thought was that I had just ruined a perfectly good piece of burlap and had created quite a mess for myself in the process.

Nope, that's not pet fur you see on top of my washer.  That's the frayed ends I cut off–on the left–and the lint I pulled off the piece by hand.

I forgot to snap a shot of the inside of the washer, but take my word for it, it was not a pretty picture.

I'm not one to give up easily, so I decided to throw th piece in the dryer on medium heat and see how much more of a mess I could make whether I could salvage anything.

While the burlap was drying, I was using the Shop Vac to vacuum out my washer.  UGH!!!

I had read that drying it in a dryer would cause a lot of wrinkles.  Yep.  That part was accurate, too.

This is what it looked like when I took it out of the dryer and hung it up to get a better look.

This angle gives you the perspective of the wrinkles when it was on a flat surface.

And yes, the lint filter of my dryer was loaded!

Though the articles I read indicated that it was next to impossible to get the wrinkles out I figured I had nothing–but my piece of burlap–to loose by trying.

This is what it looks like now, after ironing it with my iron set for steam ironing on the highest possible setting.

Is it as perfectly smooth as when it was first purchased?  No.  Does it smell like chemicals–as it did when I first purchased it?  No.  Is it softer and more pliable?  Yes.

So, is burlap washable?  Well, mine was.  Is it worth the mess?  Only you can decide that one.

I would not have been happy with that horrible chemical odor in my home.  And while I didn't care for the mess that was generated to wash it, I'm glad I did.

Tips and Tricks Tuesday #9 - How to Get the Best Deals from Market Vendors

BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE DETAILS FOR ALL THREE NEW LINKY PARTIES HERE AT THE COTTAGE!

Welcome to the nineth Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party here at the Brambleberry Cottage.

Have you had the chance to visit our participants from last week's party yet?  If not, don't miss out on those fabulous tips and tricks!

Karly @ Jellybean Junkyard gave us two terrific tips that will keep us fashionable on the cheap.

  One was for the cutest little clutch purse made from a vintage coat...

 

and the other for a nifty necklace knockoff.

And if you're like me, you need all the helpful tips you can get for painting your walls. 

It's not that I don't know how, it's just a task I always dread.  But, Rachael @ Lovely. Crafty. Home. gave us a quick tutorial showing us how to make that mundane chore a little more bearable.

And now, here's this week's Brambleberry Cottage tip.

I know you're accustomed to getting DIY how-tos on Tuesday nights, but tonight, I thought I would share some common mistakes being made at markets, fairs, festivals, and shows that could actually keep you from getting goods at the very best prices you could. 

I know, because I witness it everywhere I sell.

You want the absolute best deals possible, right? So, here are some dos and don'ts for dealing with vendors–at flea markets, antique shows, etc.–that will help you accomplish that.

The first thing you need to understand is that vendors have a number of costs associated with selling their wares–regardless of the venue.

 

These will most always include: space or booth rent, gas to get to the location where the sale takes place, the initial investment costs of the goods being sold, and taxes that have to be paid once those goods are sold.

There are also quite a few other incidental costs that may or may not apply for a particular event:  fees for city permits, food and lodging–when the sale site is far from home, and costs for supplies necessary for cleaning and/or repairing items for sale. 

And these are just a few of the extra expenses incurred as a seller.

So, why am I telling you all of this? 

Because one of the most common mistakes made by buyers is the assumption that a huge profit is built in to an item being sold.  That is often not the case–once all of the above costs are factored in. 

The seller may, or may not, have the ability to come down on the price of an item. 

Only he, or she, knows if it's possible to do so and still make a profit–which is the goal of every business.

So, how does one navigate this whole

price–negotiation deal? 

 Do politely ask the seller if the price tagged, or quoted, is the best price he or she can give.  Respect and kindness go a long way in the negotiation of any transaction. 

And, by all means, if you are told it is, accept it.  Don't try to tell the seller why he could, or should, give you a better price. 

Some items being sold may not have any markup attached–the reasons for this would take a whole separate post to explain.

Do not, I repeat, do not tell the seller you will "give" him, or her, a certain price–set by you–for the item.  Every dealer I know finds that tactic presumptuous and rude.

Do, however, tell him if there is a certain price you can afford to pay–should that be the case.  It may, or may not, make a difference.

Don't behave rudely or impolitely if the seller cannot meet your price expectation.  

Whether you get the goods or not–at the price you want–be kind and courteous.  After all, isn't that the way you would want to be treated?

There's a lot of hard work involved for most sellers in this line of business–packing and unpacking goods, loading and unloading trucks, enduring all sorts of weather conditions, being away from home and loved ones, and on and on...over and over again. 

Few people I know work this hard at a "hobby".  It is a business–for most everyone who does it. 

So, the way to get the best deal is to make it a win-win situation for you–the buyer–and the seller.  ; )

Tips and Tricks Tuesday #8 - How to Make a Yard Conservatory

Welcome to the eighth Tips & Tricks Tuesday linky party at the Brambleberry Cottage.

Diane @ Pittypat Paperie knew the party was still happenin' here, so she shared her tip for a festive recycle to celebrate.  Great job, Diane!

And now it's my turn to share a few tips and tricks.

I received so many wonderful e-mails and kind comments about my yard conservatory that I decided to give you a quick tutorial for its construction.

The windows you choose for your conservatory will dictate the shape it takes.

I knew before I started the shape I wanted.  Of course, having the advantage of a stash of vintage windows in my barn afforded me multiple options.

With the group of windows I selected, I could have built up, instead of out.  But, I knew before I began that I wanted my yard conservatory to resemble a cottage.

Here are a couple of tips:

  Cleaning everything prior to assembly is much easier than after construction is complete.

And, if you intend to leave your conservatory outside, it's best to brush on a weather-resistant sealant like Thompson's WaterSeal.

Because I wanted my piece to have a very stable construction, a few more steps were taken than were absolutely necessary.  You'll have to decide if the extra effort is worth it to you.

After all components were cleaned, dried, and sealed, a four-pane window was sandwiched between two six-pane windows. 

 

Rather than just nailing the three windows together, a 1/2" Forstner bit—on a cordless drill—was used to create holes for insetting screws. 

Two holes were made—top and bottom—on each side.  And 2 1/2" wood screws were used to join them all together.

If you take a close look at the image below, you'll observe that one of the four-pane windows was slightly taller than the other.  I could have left it that way, but decided to make them the same size. 

Again, it was purely a matter of preference.  You might have chosen to leave them different heights—and that would have worked, as well.

It was a breeze to cut the taller sash down with a circular saw.  To do so, just measure, use a carpenter's square to draw a straight line, and cut.

I also wanted the two windows for the top to rest flush on the sides.  So the circular saw was set at a 45 degree angle, and the part of each window that would be placed atop the sides was cut down.

Notice how cutting that angle into the top windows helped to close the gaps between the top and sides.

Before the two top windows were fastened on, they were aligned. 

This was accomplished by finding the exact midpoint on the front of the yard conservatory and clamping the carpenter's level so that the outer edge of it lined up perfectly with the midpoint.

Then the top windows were adjusted so that they touched exactly above the midpoint.  Now it was time to screw them in place.

Here's another tip:

  To prevent wood that you will be screwing into from splitting, always start a pilot hole with a drill and bit, first.  The bit should create a hole slightly smaller than the one that will be made by the screw.

Because I wanted a more finished look, and would be attaching a sheet of antique metal and a decorative piece of iron to the peak of the roof, a piece of wood was cut and screwed in at the center seam.

Not only did it help to stablize the top, it gave much needed support to the embellishments.

Finally, the four-pane window—the one trimmed down—was hinged to the front of the piece.

Several pieces of vintage beaded-board were ripped on the table saw, then cut to trim out all the exposed edges of the yard conservatory.

You can choose to leave yours open at the bottom, so that it will rest directly on the ground, or enclose it, and put it on legs—as I did. 

Want to see how I embellished mine?  Then jump over here.

As far as decorative elements are concerned, the sky's the limit.  The important thing is to have fun and make it uniquely yours!

I'm linking to Rory's Tools are for Women Too!